Calving
A sequence recorded at Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, as ice formed over centuries reaches its shedding point, breaks free, and drifts north into Lago Argentino.
PRACTICALITIES
Getting to the Perito Moreno Glacier
The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the best places to witness big ice, and one of the few glaciers still advancing. It lies within Los Glaciares National Park, approximately 80 kilometres from El Calafate, Argentina. The approach crosses open Patagonian steppe before tightening abruptly, the landscape giving way to the glacier.
Buses depart daily from El Calafate and are timed for standard visits.
Driving yourself allows for quieter hours — particularly early and late — when the glacier feels less observed. The road is paved throughout. Fuel and supplies should be taken care of in town.
At the Glacier
There is a large visitor centre with a restaurant and shop.
The ice is viewed from a series of raised boardwalks facing the glacier’s advancing front. They are thoughtfully designed and largely fade from attention once you stop walking.
Calving cannot be scheduled. Stand still long enough and the glacier will shed ice.
Boat trips get you closer to the face of the ice. I found the boardwalks reward patience more reliably.
Timing
The visiting season runs from October to April. Summer brings long days and heavier footfall. November and March are quieter, with colder air and clearer light.
Boat trips need to be booked ahead of time.
Arrive early. Stay late. The hours between are the busiest and least revealing.