Scotland's North Coast 500 is a cinematic road trip that loops around the northernmost coastline of Scotland–taking in rugged mountains and spectacular coastal scenery.

Many people consider the best section of the NC500 to be the west coast, and I would agree.

I loved the wind-in-your-hair freedom and jaw-on-the-dash views so much that I wanted to repeat the experience as soon as I had finished.

This is my 'off-script itinerary for those who want to go wild on the North Coast 500.

The route returns to Inverness on one of my favourite roads: the empty and beautiful A838, a that most NC500 drivers miss.

What follows is 4 days of untamed beauty – best done slowly, windows down.

Day One

Inverness to Applecross
Drive across the beautiful Black Isle to Lochcarron. Lunch at the Rockvilla Hotel. Possible visit to Eilean Donan Castle. Continue to the village of Achintraid with its views over Loch Kishorn. Continue, climbing upwards over the dramatic Bealach na Ba (Gaelic for Pass of the Cattle) which is also known as the Applecross Pass. The road is the third highest in Britain at over 2000 feet. Pause for those awe-inspiring views across Raasay and the Isle of Skye. Night at The Applecross Inn.

Day Two

Applecross to Ullapool
Drive along the banks of Loch Torridon, and through the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve–a great place for hiking and wildlife viewing. Continue to the villages of Shieldaig and Kinlochewe. Lunch at The Kinlochewe Hotel. Possible stop at the Inverewe Gardens, a paradise of unusual and wonderful plants, created from a barren wilderness in the 19th century. Continue through Aultbea (Gaelic: An t-Allt Beithe), a small fishing village on the shores of Loch Ewe, and on to Ullapool. Night at The Royal Hotel Ullapool.

Day Three

Ullapool to Durness
Driving on the A893 towards Durness, don’t miss Achnahaird Beach, an almost-white sand beach that requires a slight detour. Other options are a walk in the ancient Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve or a visit to the ruin of Ardvreck Castle, once owned by the Macleods of Assynt Clan. The highlight of this section for me was a visit to Badcall Bay and Kylesku Harbour, just off the main road. Night at The Old Manse Cottage, Durness. Smoo Cave is a popular and worthwhile visit while in Durness.

Day Four

Durness to Inverness
Drive the scenic A838 back to Laxford Bridge (30 minutes of pleasure), turn left and continue on this remote and spectacular stretch of the A838 to Lairg (1.45 hours) Lunch at Greens in Dornach. Call at the Glenmorangie Distillery for Whisky tasting (ask for a takeaway pack for the driver) and/or visit the lavish Dunrobin Castle. Drive back to Inverness and stay at the AC Hotel by Marriott. For Whisky connoisseurs, drive a little further to the wonderful Mash Tun in Aberlour.

The route

Worth Knowing

If you’re wanting to do the NC500 in peak summer season, book your stays in advance – while this isn’t mass-tourism territory, its remote magic is no longer a secret.

Shoulder season (May and September) is a good option. I did the route with my family in early May– hotel availability was good and we encountered little traffic. The weather did surprise us on Bealach na Bà at Applecross though–hence there are no photographs from that section!.

SCOTLAND

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