Far From Guide: Isle of Ulva, Scotland
Discover the simple life on a peaceful, car-free Hebridean Island
On the wall of Cragaig Bothy there is a sign that proclaims The Isle of Ulva-a world apart.
It's a claim that might sound like marketing hyperbole elsewhere, but here, on the stone walls of a bothy on Ulva, it reads as simple truth.
Ulva, a small island just a 3-minute ferry ride from the West Coast of Mull, has always had a clear sense of what it is and what it isn't.
You'll find no cars, no shops, and no tourist information centre on Ulva.
Instead, there is a broad leaf forest, roaming herds of Highland Cows, open space, nesting pairs of White-tailed Sea Eagles, walks down leafy lanes, and a sense of peace.
View of Cragaig Bothy on the South Side of Ulva
Ulva is community-owned, peaceful, and perfect for an off-grid escape.
Whilst the accommodation may be rustic, Ulva is by no means a hair-shirt affair – The Boathouse Cafe, run by owners Sam, Ro, and TV personality Banjo Beale, is gaining a reputation for its fresh seafood.
Ulva is the Inner Hebrides at its most unspoilt and enigmatic—a chance to imagine what travel was like before it became tourism.
Why go?
To feel closeness to nature on a small, peaceful Hebridean Island. To spot White-Tailed Sea Eagles, Red Deer, Otters, and Seals. To experience freedom and space on coastal paths and read by candlelight in an off-grid Bothy at night. To eat fresh Langoustines outside the Boathouse Cafe on the quay. To walk through long-abandoned Highland Clearance villages in a time capsule of forgotten island life.
How to get to Ulva
From Oban to Mull
From Oban on the Scottish mainland, take the car and passenger ferry to Mull. Drive approximately 45 minutes from Craignure along a single-track road that winds alongside Loch na Keal. At Ulva Ferry, vehicles must be left on the mainland of Mull, as no cars are allowed on the island, with daytime parking available for visitors.
From Mull To Ulva
The final crossing is a brief three-minute ferry ride to Ulva itself, operating on demand from 9 am to 5 pm, April through October. Note that there are no sailings on Saturdays, and Sunday service runs only from June to August.
The ferry crossing to Ulva is on-demand and quirky. Walk to the Jetty and flip the wooden sign to red, and the ferryman will come and collect you to take you on the 3-minute crossing.
Book your crossing to Mull at CalMac Ferries.
Getting around
On foot: To walk Ulva’s leafy, unsurfaced lanes is a pleasure in itself.
By bike: You can take your bicycle on the ferry for a small extra fee. A mountain bike is strongly recommended as the tracks on Ulva are rough.
By kayak: Experienced paddlers can explore Ulva's dramatic coastline independently, accessing hidden coves and sea caves, with frequent seal encounters. Kayaks can be launched from the Ulva Ferry slipway.
Itineraries
Short: Walk to Ulva Church and Ulva House. The shortest and simplest walk on Ulva. It follows leafy tracks linking the jetty and Boathouse Cafe, Ulva House, and Ulva Church. See the 2.5-mile circular route on walkhighlands.co.uk
Medium: Walk to Livingstone’s Cave. A historic cave named after David Livingstone, that was first inhabited 8,000 years ago. This varied circuit also visits basalt columns on the coastline. See the 4.75 circular route on walkhighlands.co.uk
Long: Walk to Ormaig. to explore the beautiful southern coast of Ulva. The walk passes through a broad-leaved forest and the abandoned ruins of Ormaig and Kilvekewen Clearance Villages. For me, this is the most beautiful walk on Ulva. See the 8-mile out-and-back route on walkhighlands.co.uk
All walks begin and end at the Jetty, where the Boathouse Cafe is located. The walks are waymarked, but directions can be vague in places. Bring a GPS and/or a map to be on the safe side.
What to see
Nature Ulva is teeming with life. The island is home to nesting pairs of white-tailed sea eagles, which can be commonly seen along the coast of Ulva. There are golden eagles, hen harriers, and the rare scotch burnet moth that is only found on a few west coast islands in Scotland. Highland Cattle and Red Deer roam the island, and there are sightings of Mountain Hares and Otters. Porpoises, Seals, Dolphins, and Whales swim in the waters. Puffins are said to nest on the coast, but I didn’t see any on my visit. Rare butterflies make their home on the island with over 500 species of plants, including rare Orchids.
Livingstone’s Cave is named after David Livingstone, whose grandfather built a house nearby. Archaeologists from Edinburgh University are still excavating here, unearthing hearths, tools, human and animal remains from when the cave was first inhabited 8,000 years ago.
Abandoned Villages Wander through abandoned Highland Clearance villages such as Ormaig, Cragaig, Ballygown, and Ballymeanach. Ruins from a time when the island supported 600 people in 16 small villages.
Ulva Church: A modest yet striking whitewashed building, designed by Thomas Telford in 1828. Services are rare today, but the church still anchors the community’s history.
Gometra Ulva’s wilder sister island can be reached by an 8-mile walk to cross a footbridge or by boat. Staying here is an adventure: fewer visitors, just raw Hebridean landscape and the sea on all sides. An island. Off an island, off an island. gometra.org
The Grand Ulva House. A short distance inland from the ferry, you’ll come across the largest building on the island – Ulva House. This is a 1955 reconstruction after a devastating fire destroyed the older Ulva House, largely unaltered and architecturally significant. Its early predecessor was the seat of Clan MacQuarrie and was where the father of Australia grew up.
Neolithic Standing Stone Ulva’s solitary standing stone is the mute and mysterious legacy of a pre-Celtic people who lived on Ulva around 1,500 BC and vanished before the Vikings arrived.
Sheila's Cottage is a restored traditional thatched cottage and serves as Ulva's museum and heritage centre. The cottage was temporarily closed when I visited.
Starvation Terrace, Ardglass Point. This row of low houses was built for those left behind after the Clearances — too old or infirm to emigrate. Living off seaweed and shellfish, they gave the place its grim name. Today, it stands as one of Ulva’s most poignant reminders of hardship.
Where to eat
Situated next to the ferry jetty, The Boathouse, run by Sam, Ro, TV personality Banjo Beale, serves up a menu based on whatever the fisherman land on their doorstop - you can expect lobster, langoustines (or prawns) and crab alongside freshly baked bread, seasonal salads, island farm meat and fresh baked cakes and coffee. They also know their wine, as I picked up a bottle from them for provisions for my bothy stay.
Lunch is served from 12.30pm from Monday - Friday 9am - 5pm. And Sundays 11am - 5pm in June, July & August.
For more details see theboathouseulva.com
Where to stay
With its wilderness and beautiful coastline, Ulva is a great place to go off-grid. There are two bothies available to rent on the island, Cragaig on the south side and Bearnus on the north side. Both are reached by a 4-5 mile walk from the ferry jetty.
Book Cragaig Bothy at islandholidaycottages.com
Book Bearnus Bothy at airbnb.com
Both properties are off-grid and offer basic but cosy accommodation with no electricity, no neighbours, and unlimited peace.
There are also 2 Mongolian Style Yurts available, and a range of accommodation at the House of Ardalum Hostel. For more details, see ulva.scot
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