A Weekend of Whisky Tasting on Islay, Scotland

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15 Aug

A 2 day Itinerary Exploring 6 Iconic Distilleries

55°37'45.9"N 6°11'17.9"W (opens Google Maps)

Islay, a rugged island in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, draws me back with its wildness, warmth—and nine whisky distilleries.

Islay is an elemental island with epic skies, powerful atmosphere and huge areas of peat bog, which are vital for the distinctive peaty taste of Islay Whisky.

Having taken every distillery tour on the island, I’ve put together a two-day itinerary that takes you to Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain distilleries—makers of some of the most iconic whisky in Scotland.

I’ve included visits to some of the island’s wild, elemental landscapes, to ensure that you leave the island suitably windswept.

Welcome to your trip down the wonderful ‘rabbit hole’ of Islay Whisky.

Day One: Icons of Islay

Drive off the early ferry and check into your accommodation in Port Ellen. I would opt for the new Ardbeg House Hotel (opening in Autumn 2025) or Leodamais self-catering. Walk along the Three Distilleries Pathway, a paved pathway (3 miles) linking the iconic distilleries of Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg. All of the distilleries offer tours—best to book ahead. Ardbeg has a fine café at the end. Return via the bus service from Ardbeg to Port Ellen.

Day Two: Innovation and Island Lore

Drive North to the Bruichladdich Distillery (26 minutes), perhaps the most progressive whisky producer on Islay. Take the distillery tour. Drive to the nearby Machir Bay and walk along its beautiful white sands for a perfect palate cleanser between distilleries. Drive to the Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain distilleries (22 minutes), located near to each other on an atmospheric stretch of coastline with wonderful views over to the Island of Jura. On the way back to Port Ellen, call at Finlaggan, the ‘Seat of the Isles’: an evocative ruin situated on two islands in a freshwater loch.

How to gET TO THE ISLE OF ISLAY

Islay can be reached by CalMac Ferries from Kennacraig to Port Ellen.

Loganair operates flights from Glasgow, bookable via Skyscanner.

GETTING AROUND ISLAY

A car which allows you to explore the distilleries at your own pace.

For a more indulgent experience, taxis such as Paul’s Islay Taxi provide guided whisky tours, removing the need for a designated driver.

Good to Know

Distillery-exclusive bottlings are only available on-site, while warehouse tours at Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain, and Lagavulin offer cask-strength tastings unavailable on standard tours.

If you want to try an Islay whisky that hasn’t been “peated”, go for Bunnahabhain or Bruichladdich. They offer a less intense experience.

If you time your visit for Fèis Ìle, Islay’s premier whisky festival in late May, be sure to book well in advance, as the island fills quickly.

For those seeking an alternative, Bruichladdich’s Botanist Gin provides a refined non-whisky option.

The seafood on Islay is incredibly good. Peatzeria serves great seafood Pizza.

You can extend your journey with a five-minute crossing to Jura, home of the eponymous single malt jurawhisky.com.

The ISLAY Distilleries ON THIS ITINERARY

Ardbeg: Once a ‘mothballed’ distillery—now commands devotion from its global ‘Ardbeggian’ following through intensely peated whisky.

Lagavulin: Home to the revered 16-year-old—a benchmark single malt with cult status among connoisseurs.

Laphroaig: Distinguished by its medicinal, salty, and smoky taste profile. ‘Friends of Laphroaig’ members hold deeds to square-foot plots, making them literal stakeholders in Islay's future.

Bruichladdich: The progressive maverick—unpeated whiskies, innovative cask finishes, and transparent provenance tracking challenge Islay conventions. My favourite whisky is the heavily—peated Octomore.

Caol Ila: Produces the elegant Caol Ila 12 alongside whisky for Johnnie Walker blends.

Bunnahabhain: Bunnahabhain is famed for its maritime malts—once unpeated, now embracing both gentle and boldly peated styles.