A Wild Walk to Cape Wrath
Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath via Sandwood Bay
In my love for wild places, it was inevitable that I would end up at Cape Wrath–the most northerly point of the British mainland.
The name Cape Wrath is derived from the Old Norse "hvarf," meaning "turning point," which reflects its history as a place where the Vikings would turn their ships to head south, towards the Hebrides.
I first visited Cape Wrath Lighthouse by taking the boat and minibus from the car park at Keoldale. It's how most people get to Cape Wrath and it makes for a fine day out.
A more adventurous journey is to walk the 15 mile route from Kinlochbervie, which allows time to soak up the atmosphere and isolation of this dramatic landscape.
The walk starts from Kinlochbervie and follows the winding 4-mile path to Sandwood Bay– a majestic beach that can only be accessed on foot or by boat.
Sandwood Bay is shrouded in myths of mermaids, shipwrecks and hauntings, but today it's covered in mist. Sitting on the beach, it’s easy to close your eyes and imagine Vikings landing their longboats here. Indeed, Sandwood takes its name from the old Norse word Sandvatn, meaning sand-water.
A couple of miles East from Sandwood Bay, across the dunes, lies Strathchaillleach Bothy, whose rough interior walls are covered in colourful folk art depicting mermaids and Vikings. The murals were painted by the bothy’s former inhabitant James McRory Smith, known as ‘The Hermit of Sandwood Bay’. They set an air of slight foreboding for the walk ahead, over pathless moorland to Cape Wrath.
Following path for a short way brings you to a fence that marks the beginning of the army firing range which covers most of the land surrounding Cape Wrath.
If the red warning flag is not flying, it’s safe to cross.
The way ahead is over eleven miles of open moorland, keeping the sea to your left. As you walk, clouds roll in, gannets circle, and you hear the sound of the sea smashing into the cliffs below.
Walking over this terrain requires a degree of resilience, until you glimpse the lighthouse, where you can nurse a beer, enjoy a hot meal, and be thankful that wild places like this still exist in Britain.
How to go
Walking to Cape Wrath from Kinlochbervie
I walked the route as an ‘out and back’ – staying the night at Cape Wrath Lighthouse and returning the next day.
The route is approximately 15 miles, and is the final section of the Cape Wrath Trail, Scotland’s iconic long-distance hike.
Park your car at Blairmore Car Park (An overnight car park run by the John Muir Trust). Follow the path to the spectacular beach at Sandwood Bay (4 miles). From Sandwood Bay walk north to Cape Wrath lighthouse (11 miles), keeping the sea on your left, until you join the rough road just before the lighthouse. The route from Sandwood Bay is over rough moorland and does not always follow a path. A compass, a map, GPX file (I use the Gaia app on my phone) and a sense of adventure are recommended. Mobile Phone signal is limited.The route from Sandwood Bay to Cape Wrath is an atmospheric and remote walk for experienced walkers only.
Important: check the times for the military firing range here before planning your walk. You cannot enter the firing zone if the red flag is up.
Walk Highlands has a summary of the walk to Sandwood Bay here
Be sure to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code while you visit
Staying at Cape Wrath lighthouse
There is a basic cafe and bunkhouse accommodation at the Cape Wrath lighthouse. I took a tent and camped by the lighthouse for a small fee. I did not book ahead and received a warm welcome at the cafe.
The return Journey
Either:
1. Retrace your steps and walk back to Kinlochbevie.
2. Catch the minibus and ferry service from the lighthouse to Keoldale, which is just outside Durness. Then catch the#806 Far North Bus from Durness to Kinlochbervie and walk up to Blairmore Car Park.
Full details of the Boat and bus service are on the Cape Wrath visitor Website. You can visit as a day trip or stay overnight at Cape Wrath Lighthouse. During the summer it is is advisable to book ahead.
All information is from my personal experience and may change. Please do your own research and make your decisions based on your personal preferences and abilities.